Step 1:

Open your kit and layout all of the kit parts

Step 2:

Take your body off your stock Losi Micro Crawler and disconnect your battery.

Step 3:

Disconnect your servo lead and motor lead from the ESC/Receiver.

Step 4:

Remove the 7 capped head screws that hold in the battery/electronics tray and the tray parts will slide out of the chassis.

Step 5:

Using the ball stud allen wrench and your stock 4-way, disconnect the upper shock balls from the chassis (leave them inserted in the top of the shocks to reduce the risk of breaking your shock).

Step 6:

Using a small pair of pliers, disconnect the stock upper and lower links

from the chassis and skid.

Set the axles to the side for now.

Step 7:

Remove the 4 capped head screws that connect the stock side plates to the skid. Now remove the 3 flat head screws that conenct the transmission to the stock skid plate.

Step 8:

Transfer your upper link ball studs and body posts from the stock side plates to the new Micro Wedge side plates. The front ball stud should face outward and the rear one should face inward (make sure you make one left and the other right hand). The front of the side plate is the taller side.

Step 9:

Remove the 4 ball studs from the stock skid plate. We will need to trim the length of the threaded portion of the ball stud in the next step.

Step 10:

The front two studs will need to be trimmed to 1/8" (.125") and the rear two should be trimmed to 5/64" (about .080") so they will seat flush into the new Micro Wedge skid plate. The brass is very soft and will easily cut with most types of cutters. To retain the most threads possible, cut a bit on the long side, and file/sand down to the appropriate length.

Step 11:

Insert the newly trimmed ball studs into the new Micro Wedge skid plate.

Step 12:

Now is time for the toughest part of the build...installing your rod ends on the links. This kit was designed to run the same length links for upper and lower links alike. While this build recommends you make your links 1-7/16" end to end (which will achieve a 4.0" overall wheel base once complete), you can stretch your wheel base with these links to your liking...just make sure you don't stretch it too far for your stock driveshafts to properly engage unless you plan on modding your drive shafts. Just make sure if you stretch the rear, or both front and rear, that you make your upper and lower links the same length.

Note: This link length is for those of you wanting to achieve stock wheel base. My preferred wheel base without having to mod the drive-shafts is 4.25" which means you will need to make your links 1-9/16" end to end if you want that setup. Your flex and crawling ability will improve at the longer wheel base.

Addendum 

In order to free up movement, file your rod ends as shown in these pics. The axle end will look cupped, and the skid end will be tapered. There is no need to remove more material than I have...and as shown the rod ends hold just fine with no failures. This takes all of a couple of minutes and can be done with file, razor, Xacto, and even a dremel or bench grinder (but be careful not to remove too much material...it comes off fast with power tools!!!).

Step 13:

Now snap your lower links (rear 2 bent links and front 2 of your 6 straight links) to the new Micro Wedge skid plate. Remember the narrowest part of the skid is the rear; wide is front.

Step 14:

Now, using the stock 3 flat head screws, attach your transmission to the Micro Wedge skid plate.

Step 15:

Now using the 4 stainless pan head screws (provided), attach the Micro Wedge Side plates to the Micro Wedge skid plate. Remember, your front ball studs should face outward, and the taller end of the chassis should be located on the same end as the widest part of the skid plate!

Step 16:

Now it's time to modify the rear axle upper link placement. You will need to remove the upper link ball studs from their factory location, and reinstall them on the inside of the upper link ball stud tabs.

Step 17:

Attach your axles to the new lower links making sure your shocks are upright.

Step 18:

Now line up your drive shafts and install your new Micro Wedge upper links. Make sure your front shocks are inside the front upper links, and your rear shocks are outside the rear upper links.

Step 19:

Using your ball stud allen wrench and stock 4-way, connect the upper shock ball studs to the Micro Wedge chassis sides. For the most ground clearance, use the lowest holes, for more stability, use the highest holes. Your shocks will mount inside the chassis plates in the front, and outside the chassis plates in the rear.

Step 20:

Finally, trip your stock body posts back to the second hole and slide your silicone tube body post extentions. Your body will be held on by sliding the provided 3mm screws through your newly drilled body holes and into the body post extensions. Now reinstall your wheels.

Step 21:

For my personal rigs, I remove the esc/receiver from the stock case and put it in battery heat shrink to protect from shorting out. I then zip tie it to the top of the chassis sides. Another personal preference...for battery mounting, I use velcro to hold the battery to the side of the transmission. You are more than welcome to mount your battery and electronics any way you like...and if you find something that works better than what I'm using, feel free to tell me about it and I will add it here as an option!